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Aug
9th
Mon
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Outreach 2010: Goodridge Lane

We started outreach yesterday, at my favorite venue from last year: Goodridge Lane, in Mountain View.  This tiny community mobilized a full complement of kids last year, and the local “area leaders” organized the kids, supervised them, and arranged for a hot lunch at the end of each day - for us and the kids.  It was extraordinary, and as a result of the participation of the community leaders, only one child did not finish all three days of the program.  This was, of course, before L’affaire Dudus and the State of Emergency, and suffice it to say that this year is very different.  Two kids got kicked out on the first day, including one of my favorites, who last year had no teeth, but this year decided to bite the Legos and mash them up:

Anyway, there is this pink wall on Goodridge Lane that I *love* to use as a backdrop for portraits - I stumbled on it last year and got some really good images; I was excited to be able to use it again this year, with some of the same children.  For some reason, the kids from this community are a particularly rich source of inspiration for me, and it’s amazing to see their personalities from year to year.  Here are some of my favorites from this year: 

And some from last year: 

Jun
22nd
Tue
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3 o’clock - roadblock

Sunday, on our way back from breakfast at Hellshire Beach, we passed through a police roadblock on Mandela Highway.  Today, more than a month after l’affaire Dudus began, the police finally caught him - not in Tivoli, not in a raid of an uptown house, but at that very same roadblock between Spanish Town and Kingston. 

Reportedly, Dudus was traveling with Rev. Al Miller, on his way to the US Embassy to waive extradition and turn himself in.  Inexplicably, the police let Rev. Miller go, and are now appealing to him to turn himself in with his lawyer for questioning.  Dudus was transported to the Spanish Town Police Station, then Spanish Town prison, and then airlifted back into Kingston, where he is awaiting a court date that they say will be set in the next couple of days.

My guess: the Jamaican government will use the delay to try and charge him with a crime based on information they have obtained during the detention and inquisition, and will resist handing him over to the US on the grounds that they want to prosecute him domestically first.  It will be an interesting few days watching how this further unfolds…whether the US turns the screws to get custody of him, or whether they are diplomatically required to respect the autonomy of the Jamaican people to prosecute their own, even if it is merely a ploy to prevent Jamaica’s leaders from being implicated in criminal activity.  Stay tuned…

Jun
15th
Tue
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waiting in vain

It’s been more than a month since the Dudus saga started, and the man himself is still nowhere to be found.  The breaking-news stories of violence and turmoil in West Kingston have petered out into ridiculous news remnants, bordering on the bizarre: reports of dildos found in a well-known gunman’s house, alligators being tested for human remains.  Efforts to locate Dudus have been wholly ineffective, and the news reports were rife for a while with stories of botched raids in uptown communities - one man - an accountant - was shot 20 times when the security forces invaded his house in the middle of the night.  (one does wonder, however, whether there’s not more to this particular story that the general public doesn’t know…)  Other targets for searches included what seem like purely political targets, including the Mayor of Kingston, and PNP loyalists who claim to have never even met the man.  But by now, there aren’t any more reports of raids, and it seems that the search for Dudus is reduced to news stories calling him a “puss” for having fled Tivoli - in a thinly-veiled attempt to bait him out of hiding?

Life, it seems, is pretty much back to normal - save for in Tivoli itself, where ongoing wholesale detentions have basically indexed every man of a certain age, and investigations have uncovered some gruesome realities of self-governance.  Evidence of torture chambers and assassinations have been sensationalized and circulated in the media.  And yet there is still no proposal to fill the power void in Tivoli and beyond.  The government seemingly fails to recognize that cutting off the head of the monster is not enough - that someone needs to step in and provide the social services that Dudus was providing, or else the cycle will just begin anew…

Jun
1st
Tue
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being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage.

could this be the story of my life?

— lao tzu (via quote-book) (via milkatmidnight)
May
31st
Mon
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numbers.

i like numbers. i do. they are comforting in a way; they help to explain and predict an inexplicable and unpredictable world in which every moment is informed by the actions and reactions of more people than we can imagine.

but, as helpful and reliable as we would like numbers to be, they never tell the whole story. case in point: my post from the other day, which took a few numbers (73, 500, 6) in isolation, and presumed that they told more of the story of Tivoli than they actually did.

The number of guns found in Tivoli has increased, as of last night, to 39.  Still not overwhelming, and not what I would have expected from an alleged gun smuggler’s efforts over the past 9 months, but a number that is, at least, a bit more on par with the number of casualties inflicted.  Another number, perhaps more indicative of the arms carried by the Republic of Tivoli which have yet to be found, is 9200.  9200 rounds of ammunition.  To put it in perspective, a clip for an AK47 holds about 30 rounds; a Glock holds somewhere around 10-15.  That’s an awful lot of ammunition for only 39 guns.

But perhaps more importantly, the JCF/JDF released images the other day showing sophisticated IED devices, complete with trip wires and shrapnel, scattered around Tivoli.  This was truly urban warfare being waged in the optimistically-named Tivoli Gardens.  And the security forces haven’t stopped: they are hauling in gangsters from across the city - not just West Kingston - for interrogation, in what seems like more than just a perfunctory crackdown on crime.  The true test will be which, if any, politicians will be identified as having links to organized crime.  A news report from yesterday claimed that a copy of the extradition papers was found in Dudus’ office - highly unusual to say the least, and it begs the question of how he got them.

Most people I’ve talked to seem to think that the ends justify the means: that if getting the bad guys means detaining some of the good guys as well, then it’s worth depriving some people of their basic human right to be free.  I remain unconvinced.  I think that for Jamaica to truly chart a post-colonial course, the freedom of its citizens must be paramount, even in a time of war.

May
28th
Fri
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73…500…6…

An article in the NY Times yesterday reported 73 dead and 500 detained in Tivoli, and only 6 guns found by security forces. 6 guns. 6. After 3 days of scouring the neighborhood, restricting access to the media, the security forces weren’t even able to rustle up enough seized weapons to make it look like a justifiable incursion, even during a State of Emergency. Instead, it looks like a massacre, a slaughter. And there are indications that the numbers of dead will rise further - some are estimating as high as 150. Folks in Tivoli are talking about bodies being buried in nearby May Pen cemetery, without having been accounted for by the government, let alone family and friends.

So who was doing all the fighting and firing? I’ve heard rumors of an underground tunnel system in Tivoli, some hypothesizing that all the gunmen ran away once the fighting began. But where, then, were the caches of weapons amassed by this fearsome drug smuggler? Where is the rumored Grizzly Big Boar 50 caliber sniper rifle that had the police quaking in their boots? Hard to believe that they could be hidden so well so as not to be found by untold numbers of soldiers, looking hard.

As a plot twist, it’s brilliant: could it possibly be that Dudus deliberately removed the guns from Tivoli, creating a PR nightmare for the government? If so, the human toll is staggering and sad. And it suggests that he alone is outwitting the government, a shrewd tactician, who will not easily be found.

May
27th
Thu
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While it seems that the widespread violence has been quelled for now, troubling reports from the family of friends in Tivoli suggest a wholesale detention of men under 30 by the JDF. Many of these men, like our friends, are not implicated in recent events, other than by virtue of the fact that they live in Tivoli, but will still be detained, processed and fingerprinted like criminals. If nothing else, the Jamaican government certainly knows how to fill the hearts of its poorest citizens with anger and resentment.

The US news media picked up the story of Jamaica by late Tuesday, and a photograph made the front page above the fold of the New York Times yesterday morning. ABC news wrote a bizarrely reported article citing a State Department report that allegedly implicated Bruce Golding as a known criminal associate of Dudus. The article was riddled with other inaccuracies, giving rise to a cry of outrage from the Jamaican diaspora, who were at once lamenting the availability of accurate information and reporting about what was going on in Tivoli, yet still condemning the international media for the story they were telling, lest it mar Jamaica’s tourism image. Meanwhile, security forces are still not granting acces to Tivoli to local or foreign journalists. Reports of atrocities and human rights violations from local residents will remain the stuff of myth, unsubstantiated by foreign eyes.

Without any violence to pique the interest of its readers, the international news reports had tapered off by this morning. The State Department quickly moved to deny knowledge of any report linking Golding and Dudus (even though their carefully wordsmithed statement did not go so far as to exonerate Golding), defusing the other potential angle for a juicy news story.

Meanwhile, Dudus is nowhere to be found. The wrath that rained down on Tivoli was for naught; rumors are swirling that Dudus escaped in the heat of battle, slipping past the soldiers, that he has already handed himself over to the US, that he is in Venezuela, kicking it with Hugo Chavez. His legend grows by the hour.

May
25th
Tue
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The long-simmering garrisons exploded Sunday afternoon, fueled by the obvious conclusion that the police were going to take advantage of the long holiday weekend to try and execute the arrest warrant on Dudus in Tivoli. Reports and rumors of gunfire and violence across Kingston flooded Twitter and Blackberry Messenger as people panicked and struggled to grasp exactly what was going on.

Incompetence abounds. The government has been telegraphing its every move with the precision of a bad prizefighter, the consequence being that the garrisons are better prepared than they are. The stonewalling on execution of the extradition request was pointless, an unwinnable battle that, on balance, only gave Dudus time to amass a cache of weapons - as would be logical for an alleged arms dealer facing inevitable extradition to do. Announcing that the extradition request would be signed - instead of simply signing it and going in and trying to serve it without anyone being the wiser - only gave the garrisons time to erect their ingenious barricades, laced with propane tanks and barbed wire linked to high power electrical lines (if only such inner-city innovation could be directed to good, Jamaica would be on a better path).

What was clear from the outset: this is war. War between the garrisons and the government. Heavily armed garrisonites were attacking police stations, in one case burning it to the ground as the police - surrounded and out of ammunition - had to flee. Roadblocks were reportedly set up in JLP-constituent garrisons across Kingston; the police were inexplicably ill-prepared and outgunned. The Republic of Tivoli reputedly offered J$10,000/day to any man who would come and defend it. By mid-afternoon the Prime Minister had declared a state of emergency with a 6pm curfew, and gave a tepid and vacuous evening address on TV, in which he assured viewers that the police had the situation under control, despite the clear reality that the situation was escalating rapidly.

What has also become clear - painfully clear - from the unfolding of events, is that the government would rather have Dudus dead than alive. After the lambs were sent to slaughter, the government was justified in calling in the military on Monday morning to take control of Tivoli. Unconfirmed reports from Tivoli are of bombs, scores of dead bodies piling up, women running into the line of fire to retrieve weapons from fallen garrisonites. The news media are only reporting a few government casualities, and no numbers for “civilian” casualties. Power and cell phone service in Tivoli were cut, robbing all but a few with landlines of communication. Consequently, the reporting is one-sided, and the story of Tivoli is not really being told.

No one even really seems to know if Dudus is even there. Many are speculating he’s off island - counting his money and smoking a cigar in Cuba. I think that’s unlikely. Dudus is creating his own legend - his followers are holding him up as a Robin Hood type figure, saying they will die for him like Jesus died for them. To flee would be cowardice.

And why does the US want Dudus so badly? My guess is that they see Jamaica as low-hanging fruit: an easy win to publicize and partially offset the obvious ineffectiveness of the war on drugs in countries like Mexico, where the violence and risk to US citizens is considerably greater.

From the jump, this has been a tragedy of Shakespearean measure, each of the protagonists moving unheedingly to their doom. Once the US cast the die, there has been no choice for anyone involved: every actor, from the innocent and hard-working citizen who lives in Tivoli to the Prime Minister himself, is acting almost in a predestined way. Dudus will die: it’s just a question of when and where - in Tivoli, guns blazing, or in a Jamaican jail, awaiting extradition, on orders of the government who he would implicate as criminals were he to talk. Bruce Golding will resign, tainted by scandal and the bungling of the entire Dudus affair. The innocent civilian in Tivoli, who could not leave his community to escape the violence, for fear of being labeled a traitor or a coward, will likely lose their job, and stay mired in a vicious cycle of poverty. Many gunmen will die, and their children will grow with vengeance and bitterness burning in their hearts, ready to die to avenge the deaths of the family and friends who went before. An entire country will be destabilized, and yet the world will keep spinning, the next Jamaican government just as corrupt and ineffective as the last, shackled by a post-colonial legacy that cannot be fixed by IMF loans or mere independence.

It’s hard to believe that not much more than a month ago, we spent a peaceful evening in Tivoli, admiring a friend’s newborn son, sitting on a wall drinking rum and watching a weekly amateur boxing match. The streets came alive at night - bustling with folks home from work and children playing in the streets. We watched as a man scrubbed the slatted blinds covering his first floor windows, inside and out, taking determined pride in a modest existence. I remember watching groups of children playing in the streets, narrowly avoiding being hit by the occasional car or motorcycle that came blasting through, but never surprised or irate by the near-miss. I thought of it as a precise choreography, a delicate equilibrium in which everyone was mindful of just where they needed to be. All that is gone now, destroyed by the flap of a butterfly’s wing in an administrative office in Washington, D.C.

May
17th
Mon
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hot pon di rock

These are, as the adage goes, interesting times in Kingston.  The country is a-twitter with rumors that a highly controversial extradition request will be signed today.  As a result, businesses are closing early, people are crowding the supermarkets, and uptown folks are running for the hills.

Who is the not-so-lucky recipient that could inspire such panic?  One Christopher “Dudus” Coke, who, at least for today, is arguably the most powerful man in Jamaica.  Dudus controls Tivoli Gardens - a garrison community that is a stronghold for the Jamaica Labour Party, currently in power - and is accused of drug trafficking and gun crimes by the US government.  Yet his political influence is such that the JLP government is doing everything in their power not to hand him over.  To the point that they may not be in power for much longer…

In response, the US government has engaged in a not-so-subtle and very visible tactic: shutting off the flow of visas to prominent Jamaican businessmen, entertainers and athletes.  A stranglehold of the first world order.

The Jamaican government, on the other hand, has been thrashing about, searching for any excuse not to hand Dudus over.  No one wants to be the one who approves the extradition request - for fear of gruesome consequences and retaliation.  And so they have engaged in a variety of ridiculous legal wranglings: attacking the legality of the evidence upon which the extradition request was based and seeking extradition to Jamaica of the US government’s informant, the attorney general seeking a declaration from the court on her powers vis-a-vis the request, and engaging a US law firm to lobby the State Department on its behalf.

Improbably, it is the latter action - innocuous as it may seem - that is poised to be the downfall of this government.  For reasons unclear to me, the Prime Minister initially implicitly denied engaging Manatt Phelps - and then just the other day admitted that he had authorized it.  This has allowed the opposition party - who is just as much in bed with organized crime as the JLP - to attack his credibility, and led to a clamor for his resignation.  For all of his maneuvering and dishonesty, it’s hard to see what else he could have done: dead if he does and damned if he doesn’t.

For now, at least, it seems there will be no signature on the extradition request, and no resignation.  Golding is set to address Parliament tonight.  Stay tuned…

Aug
15th
Sat
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garrisons and dons

we worked in a garrison community today - goodridge lane, in mountain view (kingston). the lane we were working in has been at savage war with a neighboring lane in the last couple of months (http://www.jamaicaobserver.com/news/html/20090509T210000-0500_151140_OBS_TENSION_RISING.asp) and the tension was palpable as we made our way past the roadblock at the top of the lane, aware of the many sets of eyes upon us, seen and unseen.  i never saw any guns, but you could feel that the place was armed to the teeth.

we were originally set up to work under a tarp in an alley off the lane, but the rain came, and the local don - a quiet, unassuming but fully present big man whose name we never quite got - quickly arranged for us to work in a small church in the lane. within 5 minutes, his men had the place swept out and ready for us to move in - record time.  this particular community was amazing in that they had arguably less resources - at least in terms of space and facilities - than other communities we have worked in, but they mobilized in a way that no other community has to date.  they had a full complement of kids, ready to go, and the local leaders hung around to make sure the kids behaved.  and also, i think, in large part because they were curious and excited too.  at the end of the day, a hot lunch appeared - brown stew chicken and rice - and was dished up by X, who was running the show.  An incredible example of what change can be effected by a motivated community, garrison or not.